Team-associated RC10 Manuel d'utilisateur télécharger pdf (Page 19)

:: Tuning Tips (cont.)

Front Camber Links:

Changing the length of the camber link is considered a bigger step than adjusting the ball end height on the tower.

Shortening the camber link will give the front end less roll and quicken steering response. Lengthening the camber link

(or raising the ball end) will give the front more roll and slower steering response.

Caster:

Caster describes the angle of the kingpin as it leans toward the rear of the vehicle. Positive caster means the kingpin

leans rearward at the top. The supplied 30° caster blocks (#6210) are recommended in most cases. For less corner

entry steering and more exit steering, try the optional 15° caster blocks (#6213).

Rear Camber:

Camber describes the angle at which the tire and wheel rides when looked at from the back. Negative camber means

that the tire leans inward at the top. A good starting camber setting is -1°. Use the included #1719 camber gauge to

set your camber. Adding a small amount of positive camber, where the top of the tire is leaning out, will tend to improve

straight-line acceleration on loose tracks.

Front Camber:

Camber describes the angle at which the tire and wheel rides when

looked at from the front. Negative camber means that the tire leans

inward at the top. A good starting camber setting is -1°. Use the

included #1719 camber gauge to set your camber. Positive camber,

where the top of the tire is leaning out, is not recommended.

*Checking camber

with camber gauge

Rear Camber Link:

Changing the length of the camber link is considered a bigger step than adjusting the ball end height on

the rear chassis brace. Shortening the camber link (or lowering the ball end) will give the rear end less

roll and the car will tend to accelerate or “square up” better. Lengthening the camber link (or raising

the ball end) will give the rear more roll and more cornering grip. In order to run some of the very short

link locations, a shorter turnbuckle will be required.

*Raise or lower

the ball end by

adjusting the

ballstud location

on the bulkhead

Ride Height:

Ride height is the distance from the ground to the bottom of the

chassis. The standard front ride height setting is with the front arms

just below level or 24mm (Ride Height Gauge #1449). Check the

ride height by lifting up the entire car about 8-12 inches off the bench

and drop it. After the suspension “settles” into place, measure ride

height (Ride Height Gauge #1449). Raise or lower the shock collars

as necessary so that the left & right arms appear to be level.

The rear ride height setting you should use most often is with the

outdrive, driveshaft, and axles all on the same imaginary horizontal

line (reffered to as “bones level”) or 24mm (Ride Height Gauge

#1449). Check the ride height by lifting up the entire car about 8-12

inches off the bench and drop it. After the suspension “settles” into

place, measure ride height (Ride Height Gauge #1449). Raise or

lower the shock collars as necessary so that the left & right

driveshafts appear to be level.

*Front arms should

be just below level

ride height

*TIP: Set the rear dog bones level and then

adjusting the front to make the chassis

parallel to the ground.

*Dog bones should

be in a straight line

when ride height is

set at “Bones level”

Motor Maintenance:

Brushed motors require frequent maintenance to keep performance levels at their maximum. Between runs and after

letting the motor cool completely, inspect the brushes to ensure that they are moving freely in their holders. Remove

the springs and slide the brushes in and out of their holders checking for any resistance or rough spots. If found,

remove the brush and carefully wipe it clean. Removing buildup will allow the brush to slide freely and create maximum

contact with the commutator resulting in maximum power output. After every 3-5 runs, remove the brushes from

their holders and inspect the tips for wear or burning. If there is noticeable wear (less than 75% of the brush

remaining), it is best to cut the commutator and replace the brushes with a new pair. If the tips become a burned blue

color, the lubricant in the brush has been burned away and new brushes should be installed. Occasionally, the motor

should be cleaned with a soft brush to prevent dirt build up around the brush hood area and ball bearings.

At this time, it is a good idea to add one drop of bushing / bearing oil to each bushing or ball bearing.

If using a brushless motor, please refer to the motor manufacturer’s guidelines for proper maintenance.

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Team-associated RC10 Manuel d'utilisateur Page 19

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